Use a basic template to create patterns

You've completed a few sewing projects and are now ready to take your creative potential to the next level! It's time to learn how to create the designs you envision and draft your own patterns :) But where to start? If you want to create designs for yourself, the first step will be to build a basic sloper to your measurements! Good news, we offer private courses to help you do it!

What is a basic sloper? A basic sloper is a pattern piece that reproduces the shapes of your body and is fitted to your size. It is a representation of your curves, your three-dimensionality, but "flat." It's a second skin that has just enough extra space to allow you to move and breathe (minimal ease). It has no added style elements. It has no details or style ease. This is the pattern you will use as a "base" to design more elaborate models. For example, the basic bodice pattern accurately represents your bust. It will be the starting point for creating fitted garments such as cheongsams, bustiers, blouses, etc. As long as your measurements remain the same, this pattern will serve as your base. You can add style elements as you wish! With sleeves or sleeveless? Long or short? A princess seam, a yoke? And why not pleats? Oh no, gathers! The possibilities are endless!

The first step to begin your patternmaking adventure will be to take your measurements. We all have different measurements. In reality, many of us take overly simplistic measurements. But just because our waist is 80 cm and our hip circumference is 102 cm doesn't mean we measure the same thing in the front and back! Some of us have a small belly, a hollow back, rounded buttocks, etc. That's why we need to wear very close-fitting clothes, mark the side seams on the body (the location of the side seams, in other words) and take many measurements, including arcs! The latter accurately divide full circumferences in half, allowing us to know the front and back measurements. This way, the sides of the garment will fall in the right place! Super practical if we have a voluminous bust or a swimmer's build :)

For more details on these measurements, you can click HERE!

Next, we'll need to draft our basic sloper from these measurements! The process is a bit like building an IKEA furniture piece. You'll need to follow the instructions and respect the steps :) As an example, here are the steps to build a skirt sloper! The instructions and images are taken from the book Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. We really like this book and use it frequently! We even translated some techniques so our French-speaking students can understand :)

As you might have guessed, pattern drafting is a discipline in itself and can be quite complex! Acquiring all the necessary knowledge to create your own patterns takes some time and a good dose of passion :) However, the reward is immense! Not to mention that working with basic slopers offers many advantages and helps avoid a lot of frustration!

Advantage 1: No more confusion between different sizes from different companies!

Each pattern company has its own size chart. I won't wear the same size in a Butterick pattern as in an independent designer pattern book! It's a bit like in stores, actually. Designers develop models based on the standardized measurements of their target clientele. In short, it can sometimes be difficult to know what size to choose and to get used to the "fit" of different pattern brands. Nothing is more disappointing in sewing than having cut and assembled a garment that doesn't fit us at all! By developing patterns from a basic sloper tailored to your measurements, you avoid unpleasant surprises :)

Advantage number 2: No more pattern adjustments, only drafting and creation :D

Some people have many, many modifications and adjustments to make to their patterns. These steps take a lot of time, especially if you only use a pattern once. If you take me as an example, I have to add height to the pattern to lengthen the bust depth and waist height because I am taller than the "standard." I have to modify the cup size, cinch the waist, modify the shoulder line, raise the armhole, lengthen the sleeves, re-trace the side seams. Afterwards, I have to do a fitting to make sure there are no other problems... For pants, the list of modifications is even longer. The basic sloper, however, allows me to create my styles while ensuring that the garment will fit me well from the start... which saves me a lot of time :) It's just a matter of adding certain style elements! In fact, it's incredible what you can do just by moving a dart!